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What to eat in July

1st October 2022

In the high summer months, sweet fruit and vegetables take centre stage. Here’s what to cook in July

Green beans

What we refer to as green beans now includes varieties of green, yellow and purple. I don’t like them served too al dente when they can be squeaky. Rowley Leigh has given his version of the Ligurian dish of trofie pasta with beans, potatoes and pesto in ‘Pick of the Crop’ on the previous pages. I also like them in a tomato sauce: Greek style with onions, garlic and cumin; or Italian style with olive oil and basil. A favourite salad is cooked beans, ripe tomatoes, salty olives and anchovies, dressed with mustardy vinaigrette and topped with a soft-boiled egg.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes are grown in the temperate climate of the Isle of Wight, which allows us to eat UK produce earlier. But if you can wait until the natural season, you will be rewarded by sweet, ripe flavours and myriad varieties. Look for heritage ones at markets for a spectrum of colours, textures and shapes. Big bull’s heart tomatoes are good for sauces; cherry ones tend to be sweeter and travel well, but try to buy them on the vine. If I have a glut, I slow roast them with thyme and oil, and freeze some for the winter.

Tomato recipes to try:

Peas

For most of the year, I would go for frozen but, in summer, freshly picked young peas are incomparable. Jane Grigson suggested cooking them in their pods and squeezing them into your mouth (like edamame). Podding peas can be a gently meditative job – keep the pods and use to flavour stock. Serve cooked new peas stirred into fresh egg yolk tagliarini, with mint and grated pecorino. With older peas that are getting mealy, try slow cooking with sweated shallot, a pinch of sugar, and stock or water for a creamy, sweet flavour. Tangle with steamed chard or spinach to serve as a side dish.

Pea recipes to try:

Cherries

Along with apricots, cherries are our first stone fruit to ripen each year. When roasted whole, their flavour intensifies and the stone imparts a bitter-almond taste. I love them in clafoutis, or made into focaccia. This sweet version of the bread is unusual but oh so tasty – press cherries into the risen dough and sprinkle with sugar before baking. Raw cherries can be marinated in brandy or grappa to drink in winter or serve with creamy puddings like panna cotta.

Cherry recipes to try:

Samphire and sea kale

These old-school English ingredients are back in favour. Fishmongers often sell samphire and specialist greengrocers stock sea kale. The long stalks of sea kale taste like sweet celery and can be cooked like asparagus: trim the ends, steam or boil until tender, then serve with melted butter or hollandaise. Wash, remove the wiry ends of stalks, then steam or boil samphire quickly. Dress with melted butter and lemon; there is no need for salt. Both go well with simply cooked fish.

Samphire recipes to try:

Carrots

Although we think of carrots as year round, they are at their best in summer. Heirloom varieties come in a kaleidoscope of colours from white to red and purple. I like (thinner) new carrots topped and tailed and cut in half lengthways, then braised Vichy style with butter and just enough water to cover. Roasted carrots are good with toasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds scattered over the top and a honey-soy dressing. Or try a Moroccan-style salad with raw carrots macerated in ground cumin, paprika, lemon juice, olive oil and chopped coriander.

Carrot recipes to try:

This article originally appeared in the July 2022 edition of House & Garden magazine. Imagery courtesy of Alice Patullo.

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